Secret to timing screws

[spyder]

With my A grade- the trigger plate seats perfectly when the screw slot is at 3 and 9. The screw does not want to go the next 1/4 turn either (I use the drill press method BTW). 1/4 turn looser results in a slightly protruding plate. Is there any "trick" to get it to seat at 12 and 6.

Thanks,
Frank

[Stan Hillis]

Frank, there's not much you can do with the screw in question. It may, or may not, be possible to polish a tiny bit off the underside of the head, at the taper, to allow it to align, but this usually results in the head being too deep in the hole. Screws are "timed", or aligned with the bore, when the gun is being built. The screws used have very high heads and are filed down to proper height and then the slot is cut last, after final hard fitting is done.

Stan

[DSizemore]

Stan.... How was the screw ever tightened to begin with if the slot wasn't cut until the end? This screw alignment thing has given me fits in the past and I've never fully understood how to get an old gun timed correctly and tight at the same time. 1/4 turn can me a mile sometimes. I'm sure those more knowledgeable than me have discussed this before but I'd be interested to hear different methods. A word of caution for those picking up guns at shows and such..... I have encountered guns before and have bought guns ( before I learned to check ) that were timed correctly by simply looking at them but in reality, they needed another 1/4 or so turn to fully tighten thus leaving them out of parallel. I have often wondered if some sellers don't straighten them before showing. Screws that go past 12:00 are the most difficult for me but I'm sure some there's some secret.

[bbman3]

nos Fox trigger plate screws are slighty higher than the original and have slot already cut and need to be filed down some to match contour of the trigger plate.getting the slot at 12 and 6 can be tough ,but filing under the head will do it.on a newly made custom screw they leave the head way high and get screw tight with slot cut in new screw but the slot is not cut deeply.then they mark position on head that is correct and remove screw and file slot there.then dress head down to correct height.

[DSizemore]

Thanks. I've filed the bottom before like you said and have gotten good results when I only need a little more to come around to straight. What has given me problems is when they tighten just a little past twelve and virtually need another revolution to be straight. Just as the other guy said, I ruined one by taking too much and leaving the head recessed. I guess that's when you get a new screw and fit it up, huh. I think I understand what you mean about the new ones. I guess I wasn't thinking they were that proud to begin with. Essentially, you would totally file away the shallow grove and then there's enough left to mark and recut the new one? Thanks again.

[bbman3]

cut the marked slot at 12 and 6 first,then file head down.I have a few new old stock factory screws and they have slot already cut and have to file under them to get correct position.i wrap masking tape around threads and chuck in hand drill and spin screw while holding file to undercut them. Bobby

[JakeFlyFish]

I make my blanks a bit oversized as far as height goes, cut the slot once it's good and snug in the floor plate, side plate, etc, then take it out and simply cut the slot deeper. I use a hacksaw blade with the edges ground down. It's make as thin a slot as you'd like and is cheap and available anywhere. I've been at this since 1974 and I've not found a way to cut a neater, thinner slot. If the gun is going to be re colored you can final finish right down to the frame and polish it all together. Usually however you are fitting to a frame you are not going to color so that just takes a lot of time to make it look right and NOT touch the frame with anything I put masking tape around the frame and when I touch it and it comes up I put another piece on and so on and so forth until it's finished. It's slow but that's what makes quality work. Jerry Andrews

[JakeFlyFish]

I make my blanks a bit oversized as far as height goes, cut the slot once it's good and snug in the floor plate, side plate, etc, then take it out and simply cut the slot deeper. I use a hacksaw blade with the edges ground down. It's make as thin a slot as you'd like and is cheap and available anywhere. I've been at this since 1974 and I've not found a way to cut a neater, thinner slot. If the gun is going to be re colored you can final finish right down to the frame and polish it all together. Usually however you are fitting to a frame you are not going to color so that just takes a lot of time to make it look right and NOT touch the frame with anything I put masking tape around the frame and when I touch it and it comes up I put another piece on and so on and so forth until it's finished. It's slow but that's what makes quality work. Jerry Andrews

[JakeFlyFish]

I make my blanks a bit oversized as far as height goes, cut the slot once it's good and snug in the floor plate, side plate, etc, then take it out and simply cut the slot deeper. I use a hacksaw blade with the edges ground down. It's make as thin a slot as you'd like and is cheap and available anywhere. I've been at this since 1974 and I've not found a way to cut a neater, thinner slot. If the gun is going to be re colored you can final finish right down to the frame and polish it all together. Usually however you are fitting to a frame you are not going to color so that just takes a lot of time to make it look right and NOT touch the frame with anything I put masking tape around the frame and when I touch it and it comes up I put another piece on and so on and so forth until it's finished. It's slow but that's what makes quality work. Jerry Andrews