Fox Collectors

Hello,

I have a Sterlingworth in excellent mechanical and finish condition however, it has too much drop at heel for me to shoot well - about 3.5". I'd like to hang on to it but, only if I can reliably hunt with it and therefore would like to know how much drop could reasonably be reduced by bending. I've inspected the head of the stock and there are no issues such as oil soaking, cracks, or damaged inletting. The wood is otherwise straight grained through the wrist. I've adapted to be able to shoot other guns with DAH b/w 2.75 - 3.0" but fairly well, but not sure if getting that much drop bent out is realistic/safe on this old wood.

Thanks for any insight the forum can offer.

Jerry

I sent a 20-ga. Sterlingworth to Mike Orlen that had a 2 3/4" D@H with instructions to bend it up as much as he could, it was returned having a 2 3/8" D@H...your results may vary.

Results are variable depending on the gun, My rather petite A grade 16 took a bend from 3 to 2 1/2, while my beefy HE barely went from 2 7/8 to 2 3/4 by the same stockman in consecetive days.

Jerry,
I've bent a lot stocks of all different sorts and configurations and have come to the conclusion that each piece of walnut is unto itself in the universe. There are some general rules, but you just don't know how much a particular piece will move until you strap it down and heat it up. Half and inch of drop is about all you can expect but there are pieces that won't bend nearly that much and some that will go more. The only way to find out is try bending it.
Cheers, Pete

Thanks for your input Gentlemen. I'll be giving Mr. Orlen a call to discuss the job.

-Jerry

Does anyone have any idea of the probibility of a stock breaking during the process?
I have had 5 or 6 bent with no ill affects but I have one especially choice piece I would rather just use a slipon pad to increase the drop when I am using the gun.

Birdawg,
There is always the possibility of cracking a stock on the bench, but I've never cracked one that wasn't cracked before I clamped it down. I'm furiously knocking wood as I write that. I worry more about what the finish is going to do when I heat the piece up. Oil and varnish finishes are fine and some of the new spray on finishes are OK. Laquer chars and the shiny plastic and epoxy finishes fail quickly as well. You can feel when the piece has hit its bend limit and you just stop applying heat and pressure.
Cheers, Pete

Hello Jerry, If you are near Virginia you/we can do it ourselves. Go to PHOTOBUCKET to see pictures of the process. Enter "minescsm" and "Vintager" with a capital "V" to view the pictures.

Good Shooting To You, Jent

Hey Jent,

I'm in Fairfax County. Where are you? I just happen to have an LC Smith 3E that could use a bit of bending too... I should be at Vintager's on Sunday the 27th, so perhaps we could talk there if you're going to be at the event that day?

Jerry

Jerry,
Cutting your stock bending teeth on a Smith is not a good idea. Smith stocks are weak at the best of times and if there is a stock that will crack on you, it is an LC Smith. I've seen too many shattered Smith stocks to ever consider bending one. One other thing is that you are paying a stock bender for his experience when you send a gun out. You develop a feel for what that piece of wood will take and that experience is the best insurance against disasters.
Cheers, Pete

Roger that Doublegun. I have much to learn about this subject and many questions and it's great that folks are willing to share their experience. I'm very interested in seeing how an experienced stock bender evaluates each gun for the job and then applies the process. The Sterlingworth, or one of my other field grade guns may be a good candidate to have a hand in the process myself which would be great. The Smith on the other hand, is one that I would not attempt as an amateur and leave to a pro.

Regards,

Jerry

Jent - hope to hear from you!

Jent Mitchell....phone number 703-855-1110....Stephens City, VA 22655.....jentpmitchell@msn.com