Fox Collectors

D grade this time.

IMG-0799 by FGP1154, on Flickr

IMG-0800 by FGP1154, on Flickr

IMG-0801 by FGP1154, on Flickr

wow frank that is beautiful

Very nice, I love the wings on the barrels. Must be later gun with the steel barrels and clam shell forend release and no carving on the breech.

Very Nice sir!

Good looking gun. Killer checkering. Congratulations!

Yes it’s a 54xxx serial number so theoretically it’s a 1906-7 DOM, but I know LAC guns are not necessarily in sequence. The stock had a significant break that was repaired by Buck Hamlin. I’m not that particular about refinished vs original condition on these guns. I just like the way they look and feel.

do you know if inlay on pistol grip is related to repair or feature of D grade, also is it horn or ebony.very beautiful gun

Very nice!! The D-Grade seems to be rather scarce. Seems I see many more E- and C-Grades.

In Elliot's book he shows a D-Grade in the 35xxx range with drop-points and one in the 54xxx range with the inlay behind the sideplate.

thank you again researcher

That is a beauty!!

Yes Frank, way cool and a very nice find. Congrats! Question: does your gun have a small intercepting lock screw to keep the main frame screw (under the break lever) from coming loose? Similar setup to most XE and higher grade Foxes.

Also, I strongly suggest not trying to fiddle with the trigger adjustment screws. Usually they’re very difficult to get to move and if you bugger up a screw slot a replacement will be exceedingly hard to find, and then if trying to get one made from scratch the shop guy will discover the thread pitch is an oddball. Of course anything can be made but ime it’s best to leave the screws alone. frank

I have been told they are the toughest american double to restock and its not even close. The worksmanship is off the chart. I have have always been intrigued by them.

Thanks everyone for all the kind words. Frank S, yes it does have the intercepting screw on the top tang. One question with regard to the trigger adjustment screws (which I will leave alone), it looks like they apply lateral pressure/friction on the sears which in turn affects the trigger pull. Am I looking at it right?

Frank, I have pics here somewhere but can't locate them right now. They might be on my oldest laptop that's hard to get booted up. From memory: the end of the adjustment screw (inside the lock plate) has a protruding pin on its outer radius, kind of an eccentric, and slightly turning the screw allows the pin to act as as a stop to adjusting engagement of the hanging sear/hammer notch. In other words to take up extra travel and make the trigger pull more "crisp" but without changing the pull weight. Again this is from memory. I'll post pics if I can find them. frank