Removing stuck buttplate and...
Removing stuck buttplate and...
Hello,
I bought a replacement buttplate for a Sterlingworth to swap out for a badly chipped original however, the existing plate seems to be glued to the stock. It could be stuck on with varnish as the stock has been refinished at somepoint. I'm hoping there is something I can use to loosen the buttplate without removing finish from the stock? Any ideas on what might do?
Thanks,
Jerry
I bought a replacement buttplate for a Sterlingworth to swap out for a badly chipped original however, the existing plate seems to be glued to the stock. It could be stuck on with varnish as the stock has been refinished at somepoint. I'm hoping there is something I can use to loosen the buttplate without removing finish from the stock? Any ideas on what might do?
Thanks,
Jerry
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mike campbell
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:29 pm
Possibilities;
a little temperature change and some light tapping. Take a hair dryer to it for a couple minutes....lightly tap the center with a block of wood and a small hammer.
or
Stand the butt in the snow for 5-10 minutes and then tap on it
or
gently work a single edged razor blade in between here and there,
exercising caution all the while...you've got all winter to get it off, right?
Report back please.
a little temperature change and some light tapping. Take a hair dryer to it for a couple minutes....lightly tap the center with a block of wood and a small hammer.
or
Stand the butt in the snow for 5-10 minutes and then tap on it
or
gently work a single edged razor blade in between here and there,
exercising caution all the while...you've got all winter to get it off, right?
Report back please.
Mike,
Thanks again for your suggestions. Heat and a razorblade did the trick... problem is that new buttplate didn't fit. Came up slightly short in width and length. No biggie as I picked it up at a gun show for 15 bucks. If I can't repair the chip in the original, I'll probably go with a pad at some point.
Best,
jmc
Thanks again for your suggestions. Heat and a razorblade did the trick... problem is that new buttplate didn't fit. Came up slightly short in width and length. No biggie as I picked it up at a gun show for 15 bucks. If I can't repair the chip in the original, I'll probably go with a pad at some point.
Best,
jmc
jmc - I just fitted new butt plate and grip cap to an old Sterlingworth and like you, the buttplate was just a tad too small, I managed a good fit though since the stock was scratched and dented so I just put the butt plate on and sanded the stock down that way to a fliush fit with 120 grit paper. Didnt have to take off much, maybe a mm or so and the stock looks much better now. Another problem I ran into was the screw holes for the new plate had to be moved "up" about half their original diameter. Accomplished this by using a dremel tool to rasp out the old holes in the right direction and filling in the extra space with some wood splinters and glue. Worked fine. The edges of the new butt plate will look ugly until its final sanding with 600 grit paper. After this I finished off with many coats of tung oil applied to the stick and edges of the butt plate and this produced the desired effect.
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fullchoke16
- Posts: 426
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:17 pm
- Location: Western PA
- Been thanked: 1 time
I've repaired chips, cracks and spalls in hard rubber butt plates with JB weld. To get the right color, smear a bit on the underside of the butt plate and let it dry until you come up with the right shade. It's an epoxy and can be sanded or filed when cured. If you need to go that route.
Recoil is most noticed when I miss
Dr_Woof - this is an approach I considered but I think I'd have to remove too much wood, but thanks for sharing your approach and results.
Fullchoke - What did you use to color the JB Weld? Were you able to finish the JB Weld to the same texture of the original plate? I've heard of folks doing same type of repair with Acraglass and dye.
Fullchoke - What did you use to color the JB Weld? Were you able to finish the JB Weld to the same texture of the original plate? I've heard of folks doing same type of repair with Acraglass and dye.
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mike campbell
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:29 pm
Mike,
I don't have a scale with 32nds on it so measurements are as close as I can get in 16ths. Nor do I have calipers... The wood measures 5" x 1 11/16", or slightly less than 1 3/4" at its widest. The holes are almost exactly 3" on center and the top hole is 11/16" from edge of heel.
I would like to offer the plate I have to anyone who thinks they can use it. It's measurements are 4 15/16" x 1 10/16".
Thanks,
Jerry
I don't have a scale with 32nds on it so measurements are as close as I can get in 16ths. Nor do I have calipers... The wood measures 5" x 1 11/16", or slightly less than 1 3/4" at its widest. The holes are almost exactly 3" on center and the top hole is 11/16" from edge of heel.
I would like to offer the plate I have to anyone who thinks they can use it. It's measurements are 4 15/16" x 1 10/16".
Thanks,
Jerry
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mike campbell
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:29 pm